It cuts like a knife

So a new referendum has been called in Ireland to ratify the latest EU treaty and the political protestors are out in force. The issues are all very valid but it’s hard not to feel jaded by it all. The most dramatic political protest we’re had in recent years was when the cement truck emblazened with slogans against Anglo-Irish Bank was parked at the gates of the Irish parliment. But since then….?

Anglo-Irish bank cement truck protest outside Dail Eireann 2010

Why can’t we have someone cut the dask that accompanied the opening of Sydney Harbour bridge in 1932.

DeGroot at the opening of Sydney Harbour Bridge, 1932

At the various dignitaries and crowds gathering around in advance of the official opening, a horse-rider in military uniform slipped unnoticed between the army and police contingents and waited until the controversial Labour Prime Minister, Jack Lang, stepped up to perform the ceremonies. Then just as Lang moved forward, the rider spurred on his horse, shouted “in the name of the respectable citizens of New South Wales, I now declare this bridge open” and flourishing his sword, cut the ribbon.

Later the ribbon was retied for Lang to do the by then rather empty honours. The authorities tried to gag the press and smother the incident but of course it was too juicy not to come out. The authorities insinuated that De Groot, the intruding Irish horse rider, was mad. He wasn’t of course, at most just a little eccentric – he just hated Lang who he was convinced was dragging the whole country into Communism – this was 1932 after all and Australia was in the midst of the Great Depression. He was of the belief that only a member of royalty was worthy of opening the bridge – and certainly now this unworthy upstart.

DeGroot was released after paying a fine of £5 together with £4 costs. Later, whether in appreciation of his politics or the daring of his act, which indisputably had a touch of the Ned Kelly about it, De Groot received over 2500 letters and telegrams of congratulations from Australians all over the continent.

DeGroot being arrested after protest

Now why can’t we have a little more of that style and imagination to our political protests nowadays?

It’s a blood sport, mate!

Well the Australian Labor party is at it again, bitching and fighting. Julia Gillard, the current Prime Minister and Labor leader, has called a snap leadership election for Monday. Her intention is to draw out Kevin Rudd, her predecessor as both PM and party leader, and to kill off the in-fighting and what she perceives to be the undermining from Rudd she has suffered ever since he was ousted as leader in 2010.

Julia Gillard. Australia's PM - for now at least!

It ain’t going to be pretty in any case.

But it’s nothing new. Perhaps the greatest battle for power in recent decades among labor heavy-hitters was that between Bob Hawke and Paul Keating in the early 1990s. It had connotation of the Blair-Browne dust-up, in that Keating was of the opinion that a pact had been agreed that Hawke would step down after two terms and allow him to take over as premier. But when Hawke thought otherwise, things hotted up royally. (See the chapter “God’s Country” in TWB for more!).

Political fun and games

Whatever happens next week, in a country where “bastard” is considered a perfectly acceptable parlimentary word, it’s bound to quite produce some choice mud-slinging and unforgettable put downs.

Keating was particularly renowned for him high regard for political opponents. In fact the opposition once circulated a list of over fifty terms he had used to describe them inparliament. They included ‘harlots, sleazebags, piece of criminal garbage, scumbag, pigs, perfumed gigolos and stunned mullets’. He chided one member by saying that ‘like a dog, he returns to his own vomit’ and equated being chastised by another opponent as ‘like being flogged with warm lettuce’.

So I, for one, will be following event closely next week. It’ll make for great entertainment – so watch this space!

***Update 05 March***

Well it’s all over for now. Rudd should have known the game was up the day before the votes when he saw what happened in Darwin. There when Harry the Psychic Crocodile, the successful picker of three Darwin Cup winners, was presented with posters of Gillard and Rudd, each festooned with chunks of meat, he sunk his teeth firmly into Julia Gillard. From then it was a sure thing for Gillard who won by 71-30 wons.

But, as I predicted, it got rough – nasty even. According to Labor frontbencher Kate Ellis, Kevin Rudd denounced the prime minister as a ”childless, atheist, ex-communist”. Even by Australian parlimentary standards this was considered low. Doesn’t look like Rudd will be on too many Christmas card lists among his Labor colleagues this year.

The price of cabbage….

…and some other things besides.

Well we all know that the Australian economy is thriving – certainly in comparison to most other countries – and that its currency is gaining ground. It might be good for Australia but it sure ain’t for travellers heading down and converting savings into local money.

The exchange rate is now about €1=$1.25 which is 100% worse than it was when I was in Oz in the mid to late ’90s. The exchange rate was then the equivalent of €1 = $2.5 so perhaps it’s no surprise that the cost of living is now so expensive Down Under.

The brother in law is still reeling from the cost in Sydney of a schooner (the New South Wales measurement for a beer – about 3/4 of a pint) at $5.50. So just for the heck of it…here’s a list of some of the prices I encountered at that time:

  • Schooner (beer) = Often $2 (during the very frequent and very long happy hours) and $3.50 otherwise
  • Petrol per litre = .70 cents (in Sydney) rising to the most exorbitant I came across at $1.15 (I won’t tell you where but as a hint..why not check out the chapter on the Kimberleys in Western Australia)
  • Hostel = $15 at the top end going down to $12 pretty much anywhere on the continent
  • Rent – $100 dollars a week for your own room in a shared house

But there’s still money to be made in them there hills in Australia and a good time to be had too so just work and play hard…and enjoy!

Then and now: the tyranny of distance or the 3 year rule?

Two recent Irish Times “Generation Emigration” articles struck me as quite astute and slightly poignant too. They referred to the zone into which people seem to cross over after about 3 years away from Ireland, which is all the more pronounced for those living in Australia or New Zealand. Being so far away, travel back to the other side of the world is so costly and time-consuming that it is not always feasible.

In my experience – one which I describe in TWB as I came into my third year in the country – many people entered a strange mental “place” after two years away. They often appeared to close up into themselves and act a little “odd”. This was all the more noticeable among those unable to return home on holidays for financial or visa reasons (go ask any Irish illegal in the States and hear what their opinion will be).

Nowadays skype does make the world smaller but it doesn’t fully compensate for having a loved one in the same room as you. However, it is much better than the “worlds apart” that really did exist in the pre-internet age.

Book cover - "The Tyranny of Distance - How distance shaped Australia's history"

Perhaps it’s not for nothing that one of the most famous books about Australia is entitled “The Tyranny of Distance” (1966). Now, distance is more accurately reflected not in physical space but in time. But read the articles below and judge for yourself.

http://www.irishtimes.com/blogs/generationemigration/2012/02/03/i-miss-an-ireland-that-does-not-exist/

http://www.irishtimes.com/blogs/generationemigration/2012/01/30/saying-au-revoir-but-not-goodbye/

Gap year or wanderjahre?

Well the brother-in-law has left for Oz. Minor miracle too given the severe snow in Italy over the last week and the fact that he had to make his way to Rome to catch his flight out.

Roman snow

In the end, like a medievel wanderer, he literally departed for distant lands on foot, walking with his backpack the kilometre from his house down to the train station as the roads were impassable.

It vividly brought to mind an encounter I had in the same city – 20 years ago – which was to send me on my way to Australia. In more recent times it might be called a gap year, but the man I met described it much more floridly as a wanderjahre. The episode almost made it as a prologue to TWB. Here’s an edited version.

A year out of college, sitting at a bus-stop in Italy on my way home from another day teaching English in sweltering heat to quite uninspired students. Suddenly I saw a police car screech to a halt across the piazza and the two caribinieri jump out. They addressed a ragged group of men in rapidfire Italian that this was a piazza, not a campsite, they’d to move. “Se no, prigione, capisce?”

This was 1992 and all summer I’d seen refugees drift across the Adriatic from the war just 60 miles away in Yugoslavia. Out of work and broke myself for a while, I’d met them in the Franciscan soup kitchen in town. Serbs, Croats and Bosnians, all looking equally subdued, sat around the same table, grateful – despite their obvious enmity – for the simple, filling food the Franciscans provided. These men in the piazza looked to me to be more of their kind.

When the carabinieri sped off, their job well done, I turned to the men and translated. The tallest replied. “Bastard police, sure we have no papers,” he spat out angrily. “Sure we have to sleep here, we have no money. We have nothing except this,” he said pointing to a few small pouches and cigarettes on the ground. “We were robbed. They should try to find the real bad guys, not us”

He introduced his friends who, rather than being ex-Yugoslav refugees, were German, Danish and Swedish. The speaker, in his mid twenties, was the youngest and explained to me excitedly what had happened.

They had arrived here the week earlier, left their bags in the train station and went for a few beers. From the laughter of his friends as he said this I gathered it had been a big night and it was only the next day that they noticed their left luggage ticket had disappeared and that someone else had claimed all their bags and equipment in the train station. All they had left were the clothes they wore and the few things they carried. Since then the only possessions they’d acquired were three sleeping bags bought with money this guy’s girlfriend had sent from Munich now already very grubby and worn.

Medieval world

“But it’s ok. I work,” he continued. He helped the fishermen each morning at 5am carry the fish off their boats and in a week he reckoned they would have enough for the boat to Greece. “But where are you going?” I asked. Calmly, he replied. “Around the world”. I looked at their possessions and physical condition less than five hundred miles from leaving home and admired their optimism.

From Greece they planned to travel to North Africa, down to the middle east and then onto India and Tibet en route to Australia and New Zealand. Returning via Fiji, Hawaii and South America, they would then make their way back home to Europe.

Not fully convinced of their chances, I gently suggested that they might want to return to Germany, work for a while and then set off again in a year with money in their pocket. At these words, his manner abruptly changed and a glint of good humoured determination came into his striking blue eyes.

Middle age minstrels

“In my country, the Black Forest, we had a tradition in the middle ages. A boy would learn his trade in his village – I am a photographer [his camera had of course now also gone], but then he was a carpenter or blacksmith or baker. Before he finished learning his trade, he left his village with only his tools and the clothes he wore and for a year he travelled alone in foreign lands. He could accept no money for his work, only a bed and some food. Sometimes he had good times, sometimes, especially if he met bad people, he had hard times. But after this wanderjahre he returned to his village, his learning was over and he was now considered a man.”

He paused and looked towards the ferry building. “I will only go back home when I have travelled the world. I will only go back to Bavaria when I have become a man.”

Wallabies – more than just a rugby team!

Rugby might be very topical at the moment as the six nations starts up again, but there are more to wallabies than bulked up rugby players – and the roos aren’t just a soccer team either!

Wallaby Player - Matt Giteau

Wallabies and kangaroos are often confused but whatever about their zoological distinction (effectivelly the wallaby is smaller than the kangaroo) neither should be underestimated by any road traveller in Australia.

Emerging to feed in the pre-dawn and at dusk, they present a real hazard to drivers in the bush. Crash into a red kangaroo – the largest of the species grows as high as two metres and can weigh as much as 14 stone – and you are almost guaranteed to do serious damage to your vehicle unless, like all roadtrains and most local vehicles, you are equipped with a bullbar or “roo-bar”.

Red Kangaroo

(Bertha had many close scrapes with roos and knocked down two black-footed wallabies in Western Australia. Faced with the dilemma of what to do with a still breathing animal read the Exmouth Peninsula chapter to find out how we ultimately resolved the issue and about the benefits of having a cool-headed German on board.)

blackfooted wallaby

The most common urban myth about car accidents and marsupials is of the car that crashes into the roo which then breaks through the windscreen. Initially dazed, it soon begins kicking wildly to escape and with the sheer power of its legs decapitates the driver and front seat passenger. It might be an urban myth, but if you see one close up it doesn’t seem in the least far-fetched.

Origini – capitolo 1

Uno dei film italiani più famosi del dopoguerra, Ladri di biciclette di Vittorio De Sica, ha un finale tristissimo. Impegnato a sfamare la sua famiglia in una Roma post-bellica ridotta in miseria, un uomo vede la sua sopravvivenza in pericolo nel momento in cui gli rubano la bicicletta. Senza quella, è destinato a perdere il suo prezioso lavoro. Senza quella, la sua famiglia morirà di fame.

Dopo una serie di ricerche affannose e vane, con il film che volge alla fine, disperato, l’uomo ruba la bicicletta di un compagno di sventura. Inseguito dalla folla, viene subito acciuffato, strattonato ed umiliato davanti al giovane figlio. La cinepresa si sposta poi sul ragazzino in lacrime, con in mano il cappello calpestato del padre. Quando lo vede, l’agguerrito proprietario della bicicletta ci ripensa e in tono burbero intima alla gente di lasciarlo andare.

L’ultima inquadratura del film fa vedere la dolorosa espressione di sconfitta del padre mentre si avvia senza meta tra la marea di persone, il ragazzino sconsolato al suo fianco. Provando a derubare un altro uomo, ai suoi occhi lui ha violato il dovere fondamentale di un padre di insegnare la distinzione tra il bene e il male. E persino in quello, aveva miseramente fallito.

Visto dagli Italiani, nel pieno sbandamento  morale e fisico del 1948, questo finale deve aver posto una domanda devastante. Quale esempio, quale lezione, potevano  dare ai propri figli coloro che avevano patito la guerra? Quale senso dell’onore e della dignità potevano loro, i genitori, pretendere o sperare di impartire?

Dopo tutti i compromessi meschini, le dure privazioni del passato recente, come avrebbero potuto gli Italiani dare ai propri figli un futuro più innocente ed assicurare che questo  sordido  incubo venisse cancellato per sempre?

E più nell’immediato come avrebbero sfamato la famiglia il giorno dopo?

*

Nei decenni successivi la situazione italiana migliorò notevolmente. Il boom economico degli anni 60,70 e 80 portò una prosperità straordinaria a molta parte del paese. Per quasi due generazioni un interludio di benessere regalò lavoro, un periodo senza emigrazione e uno stato sociale che permise alla maggioranza di vivere una vita decente, se non agiata.

Ma nel 2007, 60 anni dopo l’uscita di Ladri di biciclette, in attesa della nascita del nostro primo figlio in una cittadina medievale in collina, si percepiva che tempi difficili si stavano avvicinando.

Quella domenica mattina d’estate soffrivo accanto a mia suocera Franca per mia moglie Barbara nella stanza all’ultimo piano del piccolo ospedale che si ergeva tra le colline marchigiane e forse accordandosi con il passo rilassato del mondo di fuori, il bambino non ne voleva sapere di venire al mondo.

Come in un dramma ottocentesco, Franca, (mia suocera) sventolandosi con un elegante ventaglio di seta quasi fuori luogo, tentava inutilmente di dissipare l’opprimente caldo di luglio. Gli uccellini cinguettavano e trotterellavano sulle tegole di terracotta del tetto di fuori mentre la figlia, stranamente non preoccupata per le contrazioni, giaceva sul letto a due piazze persa in pensieri da neo mamma.

Come granelli di sabbia attraverso la clessidra, i minuti scorrevano lenti. Il padre e la nonna in attesa di tanto in tanto abbozzavano un discorso. Il tempo sembrava aver assunto una qualità amorfa quel pomeriggio come se qualcosa di nuovo fosse sul punto di irrompere in una conversazione spezzata.

Conoscevo ormai Franca da anni. Lei mi aveva visto per la prima volta quando ero un ragazzo di 22 anni uscito da poco dall’adolescenza e spesso mi aveva trattato con affetto, come se fossi il suo quinto figlio. Donna energica, curiosa ed intelligente noi due parlavamo spesso e lei mi ascoltava con interesse. Sembrava strano, perciò, che lei non avesse mai accennato alla vicenda di guerra di suo padre, morto molto tempo prima,  Bruno Calcagnile.

In seguito avrei meglio compreso  perchè lei, da donna italiana della sua generazione (come Ladri di biciclette era venuta al mondo nel 1948) pensava che questa storia non sarebbe importata a nessuno. Apparteneva soltanto ai rimasugli del passato, alla massa delle cose tediose della guerra, non era parte del presente, le sembrava quasi irrilevante.

Con la nascita imminente io le domandavo della sua famiglia defunta sia da parte di madre che di padre. Fu durante scampoli di questa conversazione che lei allora mi raccontò di suo padre Bruno. Di come era stato fatto prigioniero in Germania durante la guerra e della sua liberazione dal campo, di una bicicletta rubata con la quale in qualche modo era riuscito a ritornare in Italia dalla sua famiglia.

Venendomi improvvisamente in mente il caos post-bellico narrato in libri come La tregua di Primo Levi, immaginavo le peripezie che poteva aver incontrato per procurarsi un po’ di cibo ed evitare la ricattura. Ma quando premetti per farmi  raccontare la storia da lei stessa, la sua risposta presagì ciò che avrei sentito così spesso tra le persone della sua generazione. “Non so nient’altro. I miei genitori non hanno mai veramente parlato della guerra”. Ma poi aggiunge qualcosa di diverso. “É morto quando io ero molto piccola ma qualcuno pensava che fosse stato dalla parte dei fascisti e che per questo motivo non avrebbe mai avuto la pensione di guerra che gli spettava”.

Quel giorno fui distratto da altri eventi che mi impedirono di porre ulteriori domande su una materia che mi intrigava tanto. Ma con la nascita del nostro primo figlio (due gemelli sarebbero seguiti due anni dopo), il mio sangue era irrevocabilmente mischiato con il loro. Sentendomi ormai completamente parte integrante di una famiglia italiana, la storia di Bruno (e con essa tanta parte di storia italiana e di Ancona) la sentivo in parte come mia. Solo in seguito, quando veramente iniziai ad esplorare questa vicenda, avrei capito meglio compreso la responsabilità che mi ero inconsapevolmente assunto: spettava a me ora  – con l’enorme aiuto di mia suocera Franca e di Anna, sua sorella – contribuire a far luce su questa storia impenetrabile e tramandarla alla generazione seguente.

*

Ero arrivato ad Ancona e in Italia centrale per la prima volta quindici anni prima di quel giorno e questo libro è stato in gestazione per più di dieci anni. Ancora, trascorso un quarto di secolo, sono più che mai consapevole di quanto sia impossibile comprendere o spiegare veramente l’Italia o ogni parte di essa. L’offuscamento che seguì la guerra e il processo di anestetizzazione della storia e della cultura dell’Italia moderna avrebbero reso questa impresa ancora più complessa.

Questo periodo travagliato riguardava essenzialmente i due decenni a partire dall’invasione dell’Abissinia proprio quando Bruno stava completando la prima parte del servizio militare nel 1935, per estendersi ai periodi della guerra e dell’immediato dopoguerra fino alla sua morte prematura a metà degli anni cinquanta. Avrei potuto trovare pochi racconti in questa rete intricata più rappresentativi della storia di Bruno – e della mia nuova famiglia italiana. Ad ogni punto sembravano riflettere misteriosamente l’ampia trama di quei tempi straordinari.

Durante gli 11 anni di stesura del libro il mondo sarebbe cambiato profondamente ed il ricordo, nonché la percezione della seconda guerra mondiale, andò in molti modi affievolendosi. Anche questo mio tentativo di ricostruire una trama intricata mi avrebbe condotto lungo un sentiero tortuoso – attraverso la regione italiana settentrionale che era appartenuta all’impero austro-ungarico, verso Albania e guerre vile nei Balcani e in Russia, ad un campo di lavoro vicino a Lipsia pesantemente bombardato nel 1945, ad una Ancona post-bellica funestata e impoverita e infine ad un incidente tragico, quasi ridicolo, 10 anni più tardi.

Ma ancor più mi avrebbe regalato un personale inatteso apprezzamento della generosità della mia nuova famiglia italiana e della loro città nativa Ancona, degli straordinari talenti ed umanità che sembrano sempre covare dietro la gentile facciata della vita di tutti i giorni in Italia.

Translation by Nicoletta Talevi

Irish women – the making of Australia!

Today being Australia Day, it seems appropriate to also commemorate those who might have had more influence than any on forming the Australian character – and that’s the women of Ireland!

It’s well recognised that the Irish have had a disproportionate influence in the development, character and history of Australia. This is not due to their numbers – in the great age of immigration between the middle of the 1800s and the first world war only about a third of a million Irish went to Australia. Rather it’s down to the women!

In this period, when men overwhelmingly represented most nationalities coming down to Australia, remarkably there was an almost equal gender balance among Irish immigrants. Irish women – and as mothers at the heart of their families – shaped the next generations of Australians and therefore Australia itself. (Just think of Ellen Kelly, a free emigrant from the west of Ireland, and her impact on her son, Ned!)

Ellen Kelly, mother of Ned, aged 79 with two of her grandchildren

This influx of Irish women was partly due to the policy of removing many orphan girls from Irish workhouses in the 1840s and 1850s who were then brought to Australia to work as hired help and to adjust the huge population imbalance between the sexes.

In my first few months in Australia I visited a most interesting exhibit on these Irish girls in Hyde Park Barracks. It described the voyage for early emigrants to Australia and their division into segregated holds: girls over 12 – even if travelling with their families – were classified as women and slept two together in a sleeping space six foot by three. They were allowed one canvas bag to hold their essential items while the rest of their luggage was stowed away in trunks to which they had access once a month to change their clothes which after four weeks in a sweaty, stinking hold must have been quite essential.

During the more significant 21 of the 39 years of the programme, of the women billeted in the barracks on arrival,  just over 200 were from Wales, 2,500 were Scottish, 5,500 were English but 13,500 were Irish. The Irish girls were often orphans in their mid teens taken from the workhouse who were unable to read and write (many didn’t even speak English being Gaelic speakers).

Very few personal stories are traceable as the only documents available are police records, birth, marriage and death certificates and any letters that the few literate women might have received or written. Reading these, it seems that most suffered acute loneliness.

One young woman wrote several letters to the authorities trying to locate a relative whom she thought was in Australia, but nothing came of it. Without a friend or relative or anyone to show some kindness to her from one end of the day to the next, she said, she found it difficult to go on and saw no future other than an early and sorrowful death.

Another young woman, a 20 year old from Galway, boarded the Australian bound ship in London two months pregnant and five months later, near term, she arrived in Sydney. She was housed in the barracks until she gave birth and when the infant was two and a half months they were sent out into the colony. She couldn’t be put into service with a young baby and what work she ended up doing wasn’t known. (On reading this story, the strict prohibition on other passengers and crew mixing with the young women when they were taking air on deck made much clearer sense.)

The scheme of extracting young girls from workhouses was scrapped in 1850 as it was leading to strong anti-Irish sentiment in Sydney; too many of the women were seen to be falling into prostitution, crime and alcoholism.

In the early 1980s the barracks were renovated and countless items which the women had owned or used that had slipped between the floorboards or had been dragged away by the rats to pad their nests were discovered: cutlery, bottles, coins, pins. Many bloodied pieces of rag used as tampons had been slipped through the floor boards by the young girls in their shame. Sent 12,000 miles away from home, their lives seem to have been ones of unbearable fear and loneliness. They too are among the countless skeletons in Australia’s capacious closet.

Reviews – Travels with Bertha

Travels with Bertha: Two Years Exploring Australia in a 1978 Ford Stationwagon, Liberties Press in 2012

One of the  “Must Read Books of 2012″.

Arminta Wallace, The Irish Times

“Martin captures the classic experience of the Irish in Australia – his adventures will chime with many thousands of his countrymen who follow a similar route”

Manchan Magan, Travel Journalist

Travels with Bertha “offers so much more of an insight to young Irish people who are now leaving for Australia than any Rough Guide or Lonely Planet.”

Genevieve Carbery, The Irish Times

“In this lighthearted travel memoir with a touch of history, Martin wittily recounts long, hot drives; stormy nights; countless bars; mechanical failure; and the generosity of strangers. A great addition to travel narrative collections”.

Bookslistonline.com (American Library Association)

“Martin is a thoughtful traveller and he took the time to contemplate the real value of his journey, savouring the freedom of the open road, the infinite spaces and the endless skies that stretched ahead of him”

Books Ireland

“If travelling around Australia in a 1978 Ford Falcon station wagon sounds good to you, Paul Martin’s account of his Travels with Bertha is guaranteed to have you reaching for an online visa form.”

Arminta Wallace, The Irish Times

“If you are thinking of going down under, if you have a child or relative there, or if you are merely curious about this strange yet familiar, near yet far, continent, read this book.”

Tuam Herald

American Library Association

Books Ireland (Sep 2012) and UCD Alumni Magazine (2012)

Tuam Herald “An easy way to get to know Australia”

“My Holiday” Profile – Irish Times 9th June 2012

Ralphmag.org

What the readers say!

LMFM – Daire Nelson Show

Interview with Tom Dunne, Newstalk FM

TV3 interview

Sydney Irish Radio May 6th, 2012

TWB – Launch videos and photos!

Irish Times’ top books for 2012

Ludwig Leichhardt – the Bertha connection!

Well, well, well….the first comment was posted on the site today and wasn’t it an interesting one. (See the comment box to the left of my post on Patrick White)

Ingrid Sonnichsen in Pittsburg was in touch to say that her great grandmother was Ludwig Leichhardt’s sister. And the name of her great grandmother?

BERTHA!

What are the chances!!??

Ludwig Leichhardt

Coincidentally, I lived for several months in the Sydney suburb named after Leichhardt. I heard about the birth of my first nephew in our regular haunt, the mostly Lesbian pub just around the corner (good pool tables and Melissa Etheridge tends to grow on you after a while). Leichhardt (ironic, seeing as he was originally Prussian) also happens to be the little Italian of Sydney with the native tongue often echoing around the streets. And not just Italian either.

One day, waiting with my flatmate, we saw an old lady approach our busstop looking a little bewildered. We asked in English could we help her but it was clear she didn’t understand. Nudged by my flatmate, I asked her the same question in Italian.

The lady looked as confused as before. She hadn’t understood and instead she began talking in what was to me an incomprehensible language but one which sounded very similiar to the dialet I had once heard in Calabria near the toe of the peninsula.

How this old lady had ended up wandering the streets in this faraway continent, without even a working knowledge of Italian, let along English astounded me. Had she just arrived from Italy to visit relatives in Australia? Or, as is possible, had she been in Australia for years but had never stepped outside her home and the company of people from her small village in Southern Italy? I never did get to know.